Aspen, Colorado Guide: Here’s Where To Stay, Ski, and Eat In America’s Chicest Mountain Town
There is perhaps no more famous ski area in America than Aspen, Colorado—partly due, no doubt, to the avalanche of famous people that ski there every winter. In December 2023 alone, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, Rihanna, Kaia Gerber, and Mariah Carey were all seen out and about in the Rocky Mountain town. Meanwhile, walk through its snow-lined streets, and you’ll be bombarded with luxury stores from Bottega Veneta to Gucci to Ralph Lauren.
Yet famous faces aside, Aspen’s lure lies way beyond its glitz and glamor. A former silver mining town whose rich history dates back to the 1880s, it became one of America’s first well-known ski areas with the founding of Aspen Skiing Company in 1946. As leisure enthusiasts and athletes flocked to the powdery slopes, a town rich in art, culture, and culinary boomed around it.
Although Aspen is both an all-year town, as January trudges on, Vogue has compiled our favorite local haunts and buzzy hangouts for the season. Below, a winter guide to where to ski, stay, dine, and aprés in Aspen, Colorado.
Where to Ski
Aspen Mountain
Aspen Mountain serves as the heart of Aspen itself: in the 1940s, the resort opened right in town, and people could walk from the shops of Main Street to the mountain’s base in minutes. 77 years later, not much has changed—on any given morning, people still line up for breakfast at the iconic mid-mountain eatery Bonnie’s, just as they did when it opened in the 1960s.
That’s not to say it’s completely steeped in nostalgia: this year, Aspen added 153 more acres to its skiable terrain thanks to the new high-speed quad Hero’s. (The name is a nod to all the people who brought the project to life, including the late managing partner of Aspen Ski Company Jim Crown.)
Aspen Highlands
Thanks to the Highlands Bowl— a 270-acre powder run that takes around 45 minutes to hike if you’re into shape—Aspen Highlands is a bucket list mountain for expert skiers everywhere. (The official Aspen-Snowmass website recommends setting aside at least three hours for the challenge.) Likewise, the double-black diamond glades and chutes off of Highland’s High Temerity lift (definition: recklessly bold) is an Alpine adrenaline-seeker’s dream… although should only be undertaken by those sure in their skiing abilities.
Snowmass
Snowmass is the largest ski resort in the Aspen area, with 3,332 skiable acres and 91 trails. (Its nickname? “Snowmassive.”) With that much room, there’s something for every level of skier—from beginner to advanced—making it particularly attractive to families and groups.
Buttermilk
A beginner’s mountain, Buttermilk is perfect for those learning to ski or looking to fine-tune their skill before heading to the more challenging regional resorts. The majority of the runs are either green or blue, while the dedicated ski school area The Hideout has a magic carpet lift for children as young as two and a half. Yet as the host of the annual Winter X Games, it’s also a hotspot for thrill seekers thanks to its world-renowned terrain parks.
Where to Stay
A suite at The Little Nell with views of Aspen Mountain.Shawn O’Connor
Originally a railroad depot, The Little Nell became the epitome of Aspen luxury when it transformed into a five-star hotel in 1989. It’s kept that de facto title ever since—especially during a recent interior refresh by famed interior designer Holly Hunt. For skiing enthusiasts, there’s no better location: sat right at the base of Aspen Gondola, you’re a 30-second (fine, maybe 45 in ski boots) walk from the lifts. And even for those whose interests lean towards aprés, there’s plenty to do: the Little Nell recently opened a new spa featuring treatments from Dr. Barbara Sturm, whereas their Ajax Tavern is the perfect spot to sip an Aperol spritz while watching people fly down the slopes.
Founded in 1899, Hotel Jerome’s interiors evoke its historic role as a rugged mountain respite: the living room is adorned with plaid curtains, a candled chandelier, and soft leather couches, while cowhide chairs and Wild West-themed artwork adorn the guest rooms. In the winter, the Library bar becomes a haute hub of après-ski, pre-dinner activity.
The ski-in, ski-out St. Regis describes its aesthetic as “modern mountain”—and indeed, its luxurious interiors embrace sumptuous cream materials like boucle, mohair, leather, wool, and velvet. For those looking for a more relaxing stay, book a treatment at their RAKxa Wellness Spa, the first and only U.S. outpost of the Bangkok healing retreat. Social more your speed? Opt for an apres-ski concert at The Snow Lodge, based in its courtyard. Follow up with dinner at their restaurant of the same name.
This winter Aspen welcomed Mollie, a new boutique hotel on the edge of town. With its Japandi-style interiors (guest rooms are appointed with Noguchi lamps, while shearling accent chairs dot the lobby) it offers a chic, clean alternative to the classic chalet or mountain style. Best of all? Its food and beverage program is led by the team behind Death & Co., meaning its hot toddy is one of the best in town.
Where to Eat
For sushi—and a scene—there’s still no better place in town than Matsuhisa, Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s restaurant housed in a centuries-old Victorian residence. Order the black cod and rock shrimp tempura while seeing what celebrities you can spot out of the corner of your eye.
Head to the vegan comfort food café and its bright, airy dining room for breakfast or lunch. The Superhero burrito is a must-order—especially for those looking for healthier, yet still filling, fare as they head out for a day on the slopes.
Meat and Cheese doesn’t accept reservations, but don’t let a little wait deter you from dining at the beloved Aspen gem. As the name suggests, the menu focuses on local and sustainable raised meat and cheese, which changes with the seasons.
Tucked away in a chalet about a block away from Aspen Mountain is Casa Tua’s buzzy Colorado outpost. While the top floor is reserved for private members, the first is open to the public: make a reservation well ahead of time and enjoy one of their fresh pastas (the cacio e pepe and pappardelle are two of our favorites.)
Due to the number of high-profile (and highly glamorous) celebrities that flock to Aspen each winter, the mountain town often gets billed as a ritzy, formal destination. Yet, plenty of Aspen restaurants are actually of the laidback variety: White House Tavern, which is famous for their French dip and crispy chicken sandwich, nearly always has a line out the door. Trust us, it’s worth the wait.
For skiers, no visit to Aspen is complete without breakfast at the iconic Bonnie’s, the locally owned, 1960s chalet known for their pancakes and apple strudel. Head up there on a bluebird day and enjoy a freshly flipped stack outside on the deck (with a generous pour of maple syrup.)
If it’s not too cold, the deck at Betula—where one can gaze out onto town or Aspen Mountain—is reason enough to make a reservation at this bonafide hotspot. Yet the mountain-meets-French-island cuisine (it’s the sister property to Bonito in St Barths) is certainly as delicious inside the dining room as it is out: start off with one of their several crudos and then splurge on the bison ribeye steak.
Coffee at Felix Roasting Co. inside Hotel Jerome can either be a pick-me-up or, well, a delicious winter dessert: their signature hickory smoked s’mores latte comes topped with a roasted marshmallow finish. Sip it all in among maximalist interiors designed by Ken Fulk.
Where to Après Ski
The Snow Lodge—the Rocky Mountain sister to Montauk’s The Surf Lodge—is a relative newcomer to Aspen, first opening in 2019 at the base of Aspen Mountain and then moving to the St. Regis in 2021. However, it’s already cemented itself as a bonafide hotspot with its dynamic après-ski concert series, which regularly brings in buzzy DJs like Diplo and Carlita. Bundle up (many of the performances take place in the courtyard of the St. Regis) and book a table at the restaurant for some freshly-made pasta afterwards.
If your Aspen ethos is to go big or go home, well, Cloud Nine is where you go to achieve that. The cabin, nestled mid-mountain on Aspen Highlands, is known for its raucous champagne-shower lunches where Veuve Clicquot is shot out of spray guns while a DJ blasts and strobe lights flash. (Seated inside? You might want to bring a change of clothes.) Oh, the fondue isn’t half bad either.
There’s no more classic après-ski spot in Aspen than Ajax Tavern, located right at the base of the Silver Queen Gondola. Put your skis on the rack, grab a table on the patio with your friends, and order some Aperol spritzes and fries while you watch skiers zoom down the slopes.
Belly Up, Aspen’s premiere 450-seat music venue, has been bringing big-name acts to Aspen since 2005 including the Killers, John Legend, and Kacey Musgraves. (This New Year’s, the Chainsmokers took the stage.) Their concerts usually start later in the evening—doors for an upcoming Bob Moses concert, for example, open at 8 p.m.—making Belly Up the perfect choice for an après-après-ski night out.
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