Joining the ranks of designers embracing a digital-first approach this season is Bianca Saunders, the recipient of the New Establishment Menswear Award at the 2023 Fashion Awards. Transitioning to showcasing her collections on the Paris schedule since the beginning of 2022, the British-Jamaican designer has honed in on refining her core silhouettes for fall. “This collection captures everything I want to say with my brand right now,” she said in a preview, “And I wanted to show some of the looks on women, as well, because everyone should be able to wear and feel comfortable in my clothes.”
Taking inspiration from Richard Avedon and James Baldwin’s 1964 book, Nothing Personal, which scrutinized the contradictions within American identity, the collection delved into the intricacies of both the inner and outer self. While maintaining her signature cuts throughout the lineup, Saunders infused each piece with clever twists, describing them as simultaneously “awkward and sexy.” For example, her denim sets underwent a textural transformation, crafted in striking red vinyl and soft lapis cotton wool. Retaining the twisted seam pants and matching wide-shouldered cropped jacket, she introduced brand tags and curved the jacket’s collar, enveloping the neck up to the ears when popped—mimicking the silhouette of a ’60s cocoon coat.
Elsewhere, collars remained a focal point of exploration throughout. A bronze shirt crafted from a blend of cotton and polyester, showcased on both male and female models, was tailored with darts at the back and on the shoulder seams, boasting an exaggerated collar, complemented by matching Lurex long-johns. Another highlight was a white cotton poplin shirt with concealed buttons, adorned with meticulously pleated details across the front—referencing a portrait of Avedon sporting a creased shirt tucked into his pants. A silk vichy taffeta shirt in gingham offered voluminous proportions and a permanently popped-up collar. The season’s coats, crafted from water-repellent nylon, had a detachable handkerchief collar detail.
It’s worth noting this season that the designer placed emphasis on utilizing deadstock fabrics, procured from the LVMH-supported platform Nona Source, in addition to materials from Positive Materials and ISKO. Despite opting for a digital presentation, Saunders’s distinctive tailoring, subtle minimalism, and graceful drapery shone through, underscoring movement as a central focus.
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