Ernesto Naranjo’s collections are a compendium of signature elements; each season, he reuses his hallmarks in a different way. “I have always believed that if you want to communicate your DNA and make your audience aware of it, you have to draw from what you have done [before] and look for other options to convey it,” he says. This time, the Sevilla-born designer put elastic tulle at the forefront to explore the idea of “filtering,” playing with it as did the photographer Erwin Blumenfeld. “I saw that I was exploring the concept in a similar way, but using other technologies,” Naranjo explained. He blurred flower and feather prints until they became abstract images, and added fringed belts with volumes in the form of hair donuts to take certain elements out of their context. “We are distorting reality, that kind of beauty.”
Naranjo included fabrics like gabardine, knits, and metallic finishes in a proposal of unexpected chromatic gradients with dresses in the leading role, along with daytime pieces with hints of Y2K inspiration. Elsewhere, his usual oversize silhouettes were in conversation with more fitted ones, something he began exploring last season. “I’ve always been more about covering the body through geometry, but now I want to show it a little more,” he said. There were no zippers, and pants often featured a single button, but thanks to the elasticity of the materials his pieces glided over the body like a second skin.
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