The only thing better than a good recipe? When something’s so easy that you don’t even need one. Welcome to It’s That Simple, a column where we talk you through the dishes and drinks you can make with your eyes closed.
Ketchup is a culinary everyman. You consume a dollop with tater tots, a wavy line across the back of your hotdog, squelched between burger and bun. Sweet, acidic, and savory, there’s at least a couple centuries of food science at play in that bottle. So would you believe me if I said—with just two extra ingredients—ketchup could taste even better? My colleague and test kitchen editor Kendra Vaculin’s Japanese-style okonomiyaki sauce proves it can.
Also called okonomi sauce, it’s an umami-heavy sauce that’s criss-crossed (usually with Kewpie mayonnaise) on crispy okonomiyaki—a savory pancake packed with cabbage, meat, and seafood. Okonomiyaki sauce is a descendent of Worcestershire sauce: The British condiment arrived in Japan in the 1800s, thanks to increased trade between the countries, and had steadily grown in popularity. But as okonomiyaki, a filling and cheap meal, became a staple in post–World War II Japan, vendors found Worcestershire sauce too thin and runny for their savory pancakes. Okonomi sauce was developed specifically for okonomiyaki, keeping the punchy character of its British forebear but making it thicker and sweeter, thanks to ingredients like dates, raisins, and apple.
Japanese condiment brand Otafuku has been selling okonomi sauce since 1950, and though you can buy a bottle on Amazon today, making your own takes literally two minutes. Kendra’s easy recipe streamlines the OG okonomiyaki sauce by uniting three pantry power players under one roof: Ketchup is the boss. Worcestershire sauce delivers an anchovy wallop that’s balanced with a molasses-y sweetness and a vinegary tang. And soy sauce brings its characteristic salty funk. They work together to turn ketchup into an extra flavorful version of itself. “It’s a deeper, more savory experience,” says Kendra.
Here’s how to make Okonomiyaki Sauce:
Eyeball ½ cup ketchup into a small bowl. Add a splash of soy sauce, followed by a splash of Worcestershire sauce (about 1 Tbsp. each). Stir well to combine. Adjust to your tastes; I prefer less ketchup and more Worcestershire and soy.
Use your okonomiyaki sauce as you would ketchup: liberally. Don’t overthink it. Of course it’s sublime on its namesake pancakes, but it’s good for a lot more than that too. With its assertive flavors, this sauce is built for fried foods, like pork or chicken katsu, tofu nuggets, and tempura veggies. Mount it on omurice, an omelet perched on ketchup fried rice. Drizzle a little into your tomato and egg stir-fry or a steaming bowl of ramen. Spread some on a sandwich. Swap it in for a supercharged Russian dressing. Lift a pinky while dunking a fry, you fancy thing you.
One more thing
Want another quick condiment upgrade? Look no further. (Ketchup, as they would say in journalism, is my beat.) In this recipe from chef Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook, you combine ketchup with tahini, mango amba, and harissa. Like the okonomiyaki sauce, it takes mere minutes, and will change your life forever. Or at least your French fries. Same thing.
All you need are three ingredients to take store-bought ketchup from good to glorious.
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