New year, new Blu: Blumarine pre-fall marks the beginning of the post-Nicola Brognano era. In the revolving doors game of creative directors, where tenures are increasingly getting shorter, he’s been replaced by Walter Chiapponi, formerly at Tod’s. Although this is a transitional collection put together by the design studio, it hints at what’s to come for spring, when the new Blumarine will fly out of its winter chrysalis.
According to trend reports, interest in Y2K, which Blumarine was a standard bearer for under Brognano, has plateaued, while ’90s minimalism still ranks high. In Gen Z wardrobes, midriff-baring tops and slouchy cargos now sit alongside bandeau tops, which share space with the coquette look. Blumarine’s new lineup draws upon this millefeuille repertoire, with a bit of skin baring Y2K, a dash of Newton-esque ’90s sleek, and bows, roses, and leopard spots galore. This layered concoction actually connects with what made Blumarine a hot brand in its late ’90s-early 2000s heyday.
A feel for a more luxe approach was also apparent. While bralettes, low-rise leggings and jeans, culottes and body-skimming slipdresses were still in evidence, sporty bombers came in smooth caramel wool, denim was softened by multiple washes, and cargos were given a less aggressive twist via gentle inserts of lace and satin. It all seemed to point towards a grown-up, upscale version of Blumarine. Let’s see what comes out of the chrysalis next month.
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